Domaine Morey-Coffinet
| Vigneron | Thibault Morey |
| Location | Chassagne-Montrachet (Côte d'Or) |
| Size of Domaine | 9 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate. Clay, alluvial sediments, and Lias marls on mid-Jurassic (Callovian and Oxfordian) limestone bedrock. 200-350m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Certified organic, uses some biodynamic preparations such as 500P. |
| View Domaine Morey-Coffinet wines ↓ |
Morey-Coffinet was founded in the late 1970s by Michel Morey (son of the late Marc Morey) and his wife Fabienne (from the Pillot clan). The domaine is based in a fine house with magnificent 16th century vaulted stone cellars in the upper part of the village, near Clos St-Jean. When Michel bought the house, a small orchard in Clos St-Jean came with it. He grubbed up the old trees in 1977 and replanted with pinot. Wise man!
A 10th generation winemaker, Thibault Morey has been in charge of the domaine since 2009 and looks after 9ha of vines that come from both sides of his family. It wouldn’t do to let Chassagne vines pass outside the village! He also likes to swap some of his grapes with other vignerons with whom he is friends, thus adding a few additional appellations under the Maison Morey-Coffinet label. The quality of his own wines means that he has been able to swap for the likes of Meursault Perrières and Corton Charlemagne!
Thibault stopped herbicides and began ploughing the soil in 2002, moving towards organic farming in 2015, obtaining certification in 2018, and applying biodynamics since then. He no longer cuts the apex shoots of the vines in his best vineyards, instead weaving the shoots to form an arc. The soil is only lightly tilled to 10cm – by horse in his best vineyards to avoid compaction as much as possible – and grass is controlled by interceps. He is in the process of trellising the vines to a higher 1.8m level, stressing that you get less problems with maladies such as Esca as a result. He carries out a pre-taille in November and then prunes as late as possible in March to hopefully minimize the risk of loss from late spring frosts.
“When the vines are properly cared for, you can take everything from the skin to the seed,” says Thibault. The whites are crushed before being given a relatively firm pressing – Thibault wants the contribution of skins and pips – with minimal settling and no sulphur until after the malolactic fermentation. Thibault uses 350ltr barrels for élevage of 80% of his whites with new oak varying from 25 to 50% (barrels are kept until they are 4yo) depending upon the appellation. Total sulphur levels are around 80mg/l and you have the strong sense that this level will be reduced further. His wines will shortly be certified Biodyvin, which permits lower sulphur level – quite a step and highly unusual in Puligny, Chassagne, and Meursault, where only Domaine Leflaive and Pierre Morey are currently members. The reds are destemmed and vinified using more gentle remontage and almost no pigeage, and are given about 20 days cuvaison. Since 2017, 15% are also aged in amphora.
We’re absolutely delighted to be working with Morey-Coffinet, whose wines read like a roll call of some of the finest that Burgundy has to offer. Thibault is a hard working, diligent vigneron who values vineyard work above all else, an increasingly rare quality in Burgundy. Eager to learn and progress, he constantly challenges himself to learn from previous vintages and fine tune his approach. This attitude has won him the plaudits of the likes of Jasper Morris, Allen Meadows, and Neal Martin, which he truly deserves.
Thibault (black tee and reversed cap) doing the morning briefing during harvest Domaine Morey-Coffinet Wines
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU 2022
Perrières
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The site of a former quarry, the soil of Perrières is made of crumbly brown clay littered with limestone rocks. This seems to give it an edge over Charmes and Genevrières, the other two outstanding premiers crus in Meursault, as it seamlessly combines the flesh and generosity of the former with intense minerality of the latter. Perfect east to south-east exposure contributes to the excellence of the wines, and there’s always been talk of promotion to grand cru. Pressed firmly to obtain a good amount lees rich in polyphenols, and on these lees for 15 months in 40% new 350ltr barrels. Cool, airy and restrained aromas are composed by notes of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, lemon-lime, jasmine and a hint of tangerine peel. The dense, tightly wound, medium-bodied plus flavours possess unusually good power in the context of what is typical for Perrières, all wrapped in a hugely long bitter citrus-inflected, stony and tightly wound finale. This is stunningly good. Drink from 2027-2032.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
En Cailleret
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Regarded as one of the outstanding premiers crus of Chassagne, En Cailleret is a vineyard with shallow, rocky limestone that turn more marly at the top of the slope, and a superb south-east exposition. Thibault owns 0.65ha planted between 1985-1990, and this was aged in 30% new 350ktr barrels on fine lees for 16 months. The nose is a little timid, as often is the case with Cailleret in the early stages, showing precision and cut. The limestone truly takes over on the palate, bringing drive and salivation. There’s good ripeness to the predominantly citrus fruit, with a touch of white fruit. Beautiful bitters and dry extract on the long, saline finish. Drink from 2028-2034.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
La Romanée
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Higher up on the hillside, this is a beautiful 0.8ha parcel of vines planted in 1957 surrounded by shrubs and trees, more akin to a vineyard in the Jura than the normal unbroken sea of vines in this area. The trees also protect the vineyard from the north wind, thus helping the grapes to ripen early. The soils here are red, with the limestone breaking out in places, and vary in depth from 30cm to 1.2m, producing a wine renowned for both opulence and an intense minerality. Clear pale colour, a touch of reduction at first that quicky lifts off. The detail starts to emerge and it’s a little riper than Caillerets, the fruit a touch plumper, a fine trace of acidity behind, almost painful minerality, balanced, understated, classy. Will age very well.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
Les Pucelles
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Lies alongside Bâtard-Montrachet and one of Burgundy’s finest white vineyards giving magical floral wine, the quintessence of Puligny. From a 0.20ha parcel of vines planted in 1997. Here the soil is ploughed by horse and the vine apex is tressed rather than clipped. Pale lemon colour. Elegant, pure and airy aromas display notes of passion fruit, honeysuckle, smoky mineral reduction, the sheer class quickly apparent. The generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence while exhibiting excellent focus on the sappy, persistent and beautifully refined finale. This is very complete having both the flesh of the vintage and some backbone. 40% new wood 12.6% alc. Drink from 2028-2034.
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
From a south-west facing slope in white coloured marl with small chalky stones overlying a hard limestone base. It’s a wine of style and race, with a little mineral reduction, spice and smoky notes on the nose, density and yet finesse, a limpid quality, marked salinity, and a lot of precision on the attractively textured and stony finish that is nicely complex and persistent.
BATARD-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
From a tiny 0.13ha parcel of vines planted in 1996 and located on the Chassagne side of the slope. As for Pucelle, ploughing is done by horse and the vines are not clipped but tressed. Pale primrose colour. Impressive fruit volume on the nose without feeling over opulent, features notes of peach, acacia blossom, jasmine and exotic spice nuances. The wood is perfectly integrated. Develops well in the glass, but with classic Morey-Coffinet restraint. The sleek, intense and beautifully precise, broad-shouldered flavours deliver stunningly good length on the compact and superbly well-balanced finale. Excellent acidity. Thankfully not a blockbuster, just a really fine Bâtard-Montrachet. 50% new wood.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 2022
Les Chaumes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Lower down the hill here, there is a Chassagne 1er Cru of the same name, though the 50yo vines here lie alongside the 1er Cru of Boudriotte and are planted in a shallow, compact limestone-clay soil. Destalked 100%, given a 20 days cuvaison, no pigeage, with ageing in 35% new to 3yo oak 350ltr barrels, unfined and unfiltered with 50mg/l total sulphur. Mid-purple, a restrained, elegant nose combines ripe raspberry aromas with floral and discreet spice wisps. There is good energy and delineation thanks to fine-grained tannins shaping the finish. A very good Chassagne villages and worth your interest.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU
Morgeot
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Prime territory for pinot noir here to the south of the village where the hill starts to decrease, the 60yo vines are in the sector of Francemont, planted facing south-east in a relatively shallow soil (60cms) where limestone has more influence than clay. The wine can be quite muscular when young but mellows with age. Aged in 50% new oak 350ltr barrels, just a little bit more intense in purple. The fruit is balanced and at the perfect pitch of ripeness. Much more powerful on the palate with some black cherry notes as well as a little red fruit, with dry extract that helps to buffer the notably firmer tannic spine shaping the lengthy finish.