Marcel Lapierre
Vigneron | Camille and Mathieu Lapierre |
Location | Villié Morgon (Rhône) |
Size of Domaine | 18 ha |
Terroir | Continental climate. Schist and decomposed granite on granite bedrock. Steep slopes. 350m altitude. |
Viticulture | Certified organic (Ecocert). |
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The name Marcel Lapierre has become legendary and is held sacrosanct in (natural) wine circles.
Marcel’s father Camille founded the domaine and was one of the first (in 1958) to bottle and sell his own wine in the area – developing direct sales to bouchons, the bistros in Lyon and Mâcon, as opposed to selling to the local cooperative – already showing a pioneering spirit and building clientele throughout France.
It's in 1973 that Marcel took over the family business. In the early 1980s, he led the famous 'gang of four' – although there were five, or six, or more, depending on who you hear the story from – the bunch eschewed the ubiquitous chemicals, went back to traditional and artisanal methods, vinified without SO2 and first spoke out for 'natural wine' – triggering a revolution (still underway?) and building a community of like-minded vignerons.
In the background was winemaker, chemist and revered taster Jules Chauvet (1907-1989), whose pioneering research into yeasts, malolactic fermentation and carbonic maceration led him to produce some wines without SO2, and inspired growers like Marcel Lapierre.
For more than three decades, Marcel held firm to his convictions. Following his passing in 2010, Camille and Mathieu (daughter and son) have carried forward their father’s outsized legacy with determination, dedication and passion. Based on a deep understanding of soil, plant and wine microbiology, the wines from this iconic domaine have kept improving and reached a level of depth and complexity previously unseen.
Marcel Lapierre Wines
MORGON 2022
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Ripe grapes are meticulously sorted and cooled in refrigerated trucks before a semi-carbonic maceration. The Lapierres believe in diligent and controlled winemaking – they monitor the microbiological activity of their wines under microscope daily (during both fermentation and ageing) to be able to vinify without SO2. A finely sculpted wine here, with a mid-raspberry colour, delicately extracted, and beautifully pure old viney fruit, enhanced by ten months ageing in old barrels (from Prieuré-Roch in Burgundy) and wooden foudres. No fining and filtration, low SO2 might be added at bottling only – the bottles marked 'N' (for Nature) on the back label are made 'sans soufre'.
MORGON 2022
Camille
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Cuvée Camille comes from a 1ha SW facing plot in La Roche du Py – a lieu-dit within the hilly Côte du Py, famous for its particular 'roches bleues' granitic soil. The topsoil is very thin there and the 80yo vines plunge straight into the bedrock. The wine is deep and concentrated, with ripe fruit, wild herbs and spices; it’s rich and complex with an almost 'sudiste' quality. Beautiful salivating bitters lend freshness and peps on the finish. Drink now to 2035.
MORGON 2022
Marcel Lapierre
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
The cuvée Marcel Lapierre is only made in great vintages – it's a selection of the oldest vines at the domaine (around 100yo on roughly 2.5ha) sourced from the climats Côte du Py as well as Douby (that borders the Fleurie appellation). Floral on the nose, this wine can be reduced in its youth, the palate is structured with fine tannins, concentration, and good acidity at its core; it is rich and layered, with spices, herbs, and earthy tones mingled with an irony finish. Drink now to 2035.