Pierre-Henri Rougeot
| Vigneron | Pierre-Henri Rougeot |
| Location | Meursault (Côte d'Or) |
| Size of Domaine | Micro négoce 1.5 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate. Clay-limestone marls, alluvial sediments on mid-Jurassic limestone bedrock. 250-330m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Organic and biodynamic practice, often certified. |
| View Pierre-Henri Rougeot wines ↓ |
Pierre-Henri grew up on the family domaine in Meursault (Domaine Rougeot) and studied viticulture at the Lycée Agricole in Beaune. After a year at Domaine de Montille, he joined the (Cognac-based) tonnellerie Vicard in 2008, rising through the ranks to become export manager. A shrewd move that made him part of the inner circle at some of the most revered domaines – such as Domaine de La Romanée Conti and Jean-François Ganevat – but also expanded his perspective exponentially by tasting and exchanging ideas with vignerons from around the globe.
2010 marked his return to the family domaine, initially spending one month per year to oversee winemaking during harvest, before fully taking over in 2019. He led a period of profound change that radically transformed the domaine: shifting to organic and then biodynamic viticulture, embracing low-SO2 winemaking, and managing a complete overhaul of the domaine's distribution network.
Pierre-Henri's micro négoce – established in 2017 under his own name – is an unconventional setup: he sells Meursault grapes from Domaine Rougeot to like-minded vignerons at the lowest possible price, in exchange for similarly priced fruit of their own. "This pushes everyone involved to produce the highest quality grapes possible and keeps a lid on prices which have gone insane in the region lately, especially from top terroirs and villages", he explains. Due to limited cellar space, Domaine Rougeot has always sold around 15-20% of its production to the négoce – nowadays Pierre-Henri makes a point to prioritise the younger generation to help them secure a foothold in the region.
"The négoce is my playground", as he puts it, "a chance to vinify more pinot noir, both in terms of volume and diversity of origin. It’s an unforgiving cépage that requires absolute precision, and I relish the challenge!"
Biodynamic treatment Set up in the cellar underneath his house in Meursault, the négoce produces 10,000 bottles annually from villages across the Côte d’Or, 95% of which are certified organic or biodynamic (a rarity for a négoce). The Meursault, Pommard, and Volnay wines are made from Domaine Rougeot's vineyards, while the rest of the range comes from grapes supplied by growers he's friendly with.
In the cave, the chardonnay bunches are pressed whole and allowed to settle in stainless steel. The clear must is then fed into 228ltr barrels (Millard and Centre France) for fermentation and 18 months ageing without bâtonnage or racking. When it comes to pinot noir, Pierre-Henri mentions the wines of Lalou Bize-Leroy as an inspiration – sorted upon arrival, whole bunches are carefully loaded into oak or stainless steel vats that are topped up with fermenting juice, inerted with CO2, and sealed with a floating cap. Maceration lasts ten days with a maximum of two to three pigeages by foot, the wine is pressed using a vertical press, and ages for 18 months in 228ltr barrels.
The oak regime is spot on as one might expect: Pierre-Henri favours 'chauffe blonde' (light toasting) with new oak averaging 25-33%, except for the most limited cuvées such as Corton Charlemagne GC which is aged in a single new barrel. SO2 is used with parsimony too, a small dose might be added after 12 months of ageing if a given wine seems fragile, and all wines see an addition at the end of their second winter in barrels, about 6-7 weeks prior to bottling. Total SO2 levels range between 20 to 60mg/ltr.
Pierre-Henri is one of the most prominent members of the new generation of Burgundy vignerons, and deservedly so. His unique position gives him access to fruit of pristine quality and pedigree from some of the most coveted villages in Burgundy. He is a thoughtful, sensitive winemaker with an innate understanding of extraction and élevage, and has the common sense to vinify these prestigious appellations with transparency – his wines are free and joyful, expressing their terroir with precision and class.
Pierre-Henri Rougeot Wines
MEURSAULT 2022
Sous La Velle
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from Domaine Rougeot’s 55yo biodynamically tended vines in Sous La Velle. This lieu-dit sits on heavy clay soils just below the village of Meursault. Aged in a third new oak, there’s a whiff of reduction on the nose, the palate is rich and large, verging on opulent. There's a light touch of oak, that will integrate beautifully in time, supporting gorgeous, silky stone fruits.
SAINT-ROMAIN 2022
Le Jarron
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Le Jarron lies at the heart of 'St-Romain’s amphitheatre', facing due south, on a steep slope, and sits on very poor white soil. The fruit comes from a biodynamic producer, and ageing occurred in 20% new oak. The 40yo vines yielded a wine of more flesh and substance than most Saint-Romain we've come across, backed up by good tension and a limestone mineral print.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 2022
Le Paradis
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This is the assemblage of two lieux-dits Les Lombardes and La Goujonne located at the bottom of the slope, below the village of Chassagne. The oak (25% new) is very discreet here, and the nose lifted and elegant. The palate is bright and detailed with white flowers, lemon, and a touch of fresh butter. Very good tension, vibrant, lovely limestone-induced bitters on the finish.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
En Remilly
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
En Remilly is a fantastic climat, a prime terroir linking St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly to Chevalier-Montrachet GC. There's hardly any topsoil above the Bathonian limestone bedrock, bringing mineral imprint and structure to the wines. The 60yo vines struggled here in 2022, yielding just 30hh of pristine grapes. A multidimensional umami bomb, the wine is concentrated, powerful, and packed with tannin-like bitters that enliven the finish. Grand Vin. For drinking now to 2028.
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The vineyard is located towards the top of the hill of Corton, close to the woods, one of the last plot to ripen. Vinified and aged entirely without SO2 – only a tiny adjustment three weeks before the final 'soutirage' pre-bottling. This is lifted and dynamic, with good weight too and a floral touch. Perfect balance between silkiness and acidity, fruit and bitters, a beautiful wine with no hard edges and a lot of class typical of its pedigree. For drinking now to 2028+.
POMMARD 2022
Rue au Port
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This is sourced from Domaine Rougeot’s impeccable biodynamic fruit. Rue au Port is the last vineyard on the slope, below the village of Pommard on the Volnay side. Just three barrels produced here, one of which was new. This is a 'modern' Pommard – deep, powerful, and generous, the tannins are coated with round fleshy fruit. There's an iron ping running through the wine while the stems bring freshness and restraint.
BEAUNE 2022
Les Longbois
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This is a selection of pinot fin from Les Longbois, a cool site high up on the slope towards the Hautes-Côtes (330m altitude) with a S/SW exposition. The wine is pretty as well as restrained, long and lifted with very fine tannins. Slightly austere at first, it opens up beautifully with gorgeous bramble fruits aromatics and a long savoury finish.
CORTON GRAND CRU 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
The plot is on the Aloxe side of the hill of Corton, mid-slope close to the Bressandes lieu-dit. The coteau is fairly steep and the 45yo vines sit on a clay-limestone soil with perfect draining capacity. Despite being into the second year of organic conversion, the vines yielded a generous 40hh in 2022. Deep purple colour, explosive and lush on the nose, the whole bunches bring lovely herbal notes and lift to the rich and deep mouthfeel. There’s great energy on the palate, sappy bramble fruits, beautifully fine tannins, impeccable balance, and a very long finish. For drinking now to 2030.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2022
En Reniard
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The climat En Reniard lies south of the village, just below the 'route départemantale' – the 35yo vines sit on a 80cm deep clay topsoil. Aged in new (25%) to 3yo barrels for 18 months and bottled without fining or filtration. A perfect blend of structure and elegance, with enticing tannins, perfumed red fruits, and a savoury finish.