Jancis Robinson on Grower Champagnes | FT
| Publication | The Financial Times and jancisrobinson.com |
| Author | Jancis Robinson |
| Published | 11 and 13 June, 2015 |
Jancis Robinson has recently been talking about grower champagnes (June 11th and 13th). On jancisrobinson.com she published tasting notes on nearly 100 grower champagnes. Vine Trail champagnes took 10 of the top 11 places (champagnes ranked 17.5 and above), Jancis’s only VGV (very good value) champagne was from us, as were 2 of her 4 GV (good value) champagnes. Please find notes below
Very good value (VGV)
Lamiable Extra Brut Frand Cru NV
Dosage 4 g/l.
Extremely zesty with strong citrus notes. Tight and dense – explosive bead – and just a tiny bit coarser than some but VGV.
Drink 2015-2017 — 16
Good value (GV)
Aurélien Suenen, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV
Dosage 3 g/l.
His second vintage, based on classic vinification of Chardonnay. Remarkably serious wine. GV (and one of the top 11 champagnes)
Drink 2015-2018 — 17
Marguet Père et Fils, Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Premier Cru NV
Dosage 4 g/l.
Plums and walnuts on the nose. Really interesting – still a bit yeasty, in a good way. Chock full of character and it offers different flavours as it progresses on the palate. Excellent persistence. GV (and one of the top 11 champagnes)
Drink 2015-2020 — 17.5
Other champagnes that featured in the top 11
Agrapart et Fils, L'Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru 2008
Dosage 4 g/l.
All Chardonnay from 50-year-old vines. Very complete and spreads across the palate. Really long and beautifully balanced. An impressive truffley note. Superior wine.
Drink 2013-2020 — 17.5
Raphael et Vincent Bérèche, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Premier Cru 2008
Dosage 6 g/l.
Very complete on the palate. Great balance. Creamy texture. Hugely satisfying. Impressive persistence.
Drink 2014-2019 — 17.5
Chartogne-Taillet, Orizeaux Extra Brut 2009
Dosage 2 g/l.
100% Pinot Noir. Rich nose and as though there were a bit of oak influence here. Most attractive bready nose. Very full but not heavy – though on the back palate it goes on and on. Very impressive, though arguably not an aperitif. Quite evolved.
Drink 2014-2019 — 18
La Closerie, Jérôme Prévost, Les Béguines Extra Brut NV
2011 vintage. Dosage 2 g/l.
Very heady, attention-grabbing, lightly reductive nose. For such a young wine, this seems unusually marked by autolysis. Very dense and impressive. Positively chiselled. This is a very dry champagne that works. Tingle on the end.
Drink 2015-2020 — 17.5
Laherte Frères, Les 7 Extra Brut NV
Dosage 4 g/l.
Sort of solera system. This blend of no fewer than seven different varieties is based on 2010. Impressively complete nose. Real depth and complexity. Very much a wine that demands attention. It just happens to have bubbles. Bravo!
Drink 2015-2021 — 18.5
Marguet Père et Fils, Réserve Extra Brut Grand Cru NV
Dosage 3 g/l.
Refined and substantial with some green notes. But perfectly ripe fruit. A great explosive mouthful. Very neat. Ready. This bottling will be discontinued.
Drink 2014-2018 — 17.5
Marguet Père et Fils, Éléments 10 Extra Brut Grand Cru NV
Dosage 3 g/l.
This is a multi-vintage blend but they are starting to add the last two digits of the principal year to the label. Extremely zesty and finely chiselled. Really pungent and fumy. T’would make a great aperitif. Very refined.
Drink 2015-2020 — 18
Marguet Père et Fils, Sapience Extra Brut 2007
The first deluxe champagne to be certified organic and to be made every year apparently. In 2007 they had to buy in grapes from their mates because they were not yet certified organic. Very tightly laced texture. Tingles with exuberance and ambition. This tastes like a new kid on the block – all defiance and effort. Nothing remotely laconic about it. Razor sharp and clean. Chapeau! (But I suspect it’s no bargain.)
Drink 2013-2020 — 18
Ulysse Collin, Les Roises Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
Dosage 2 g/l.
Based on 2010. From 60-year-old vines in Congy. Round and charming. Very gorgeous. A real flattering mouthful with considerable weight.
Drink 2014-2019 — 18